Saturday, 26 April 2014

Drafting my pattern - The Aquamarine 014 Dress


First of all I started off drawing round the front and back of a basic bodice block, 

I then started to draw on the neckline that I wanted on the front and I started to manipulate and create my design from
The basic shape. 
 You can see the neckline I haw drawn here and the scribble is the part I am goin to cut out. 

The aim of the neckline was to have it more off to the side on the left shoulder an have the right  shoulder the usual shape. 

I then started to change the back.. So far you can see I am about to alter the back of the neck. 

I then started to create style lines on my pattern so that it would give it more shap. Here I am removing the darts to create the shape/style line I want. 

I drew on it with a different coloured pen so that it was obvious to me what the lines/dots were for.  

I did the same to the back, I removed darts to create style lines but for the back I had to draw out two and do them slightly different with it being an asymmetrical pattern. 

Here you can see I have divided the front bodice into three parts and the neckline looks how I want it to look.(only on paper so far) 


This is the back split into two parts. 

Here I placed my patterns on to calico ready to cut out and sew up to see what we was working with. (I don't know if you can spot this but this is where I went wrong. I didn't draw out another back and alter it to match the side that was different) I just cut two out of the back and one out of the front as I thought that is what I needed.
So I sewed that up and this was the outcome. It's not bad but it's my great either. The pattern cutting is right on the front for what I wanted but it looked silly . It looks as if its not sewn properly and I wasn't happy with it so I knew I'd have to change something. 

How ever the back didn't match up right and the shoulder was off due to me not changing it to match the asymmetrical front so I had to make another piece 
 

I also altered the neckline getting rid of some bits as you can see on here to make it look so that it would be constructed properly as well as actually being made right. 

I made that up and I wasn't happy with that either the neckline was too wide so I started adding bits and cutting it while it was on The mannequin. 

Oops I'm
One step ahead! Before that we added the triangular bits at the bottom to create the shape i wanted adding it to both sides and the middle of the bodice 

I then tried that again made it up to see the results!! 

Again! I wasn't happy the neckline was far too wide and it just didn't come down low enough for me, the shape just wasn't right at all so I started cutting away on the mannequin and then I had to transfer that to the pattern which was a bit of a challenge! But I measured it and managed to get the shape right. 
Here I am transferring the shape from the garment to the patter adding bits in. 

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